Even in death, Sinaloa drug lords can’t resist showing off the enormous power and wealth obtained thanks to their murderous careers.
In a cemetery on the outskirts of Culiacán, capital of Sinaloa and home of the infamous cartel of the same name, some of the most elaborate and expensive mausoleums in the world mark the final resting place of dozens of former ‘narcotraficantes’ – or narcos.
Costing up to $500,000 each and featuring gold-plated domes, Italian marble and luxuries like wifi, air conditioning and satellite TV, many of the tombs at the Jardines del Humaya are like mini-mansions.
But the gaudiness at the cemetery 15 minutes’ drive from the center of Culiacán hides the grisly reality of the lives of many of their inhabitants.
I visited early in the morning with journalist and Culiacán native Miguel Angel Vega – early because come the afternoon and evening friends and family are known to hold parties for the deceased at their gravesides and some do not take kindly to visitors.
This is the horrifying moment a fatal blast rips through a makeshift Mexican firework factory.
The explosion in the town of Tultepec, north of Mexico City, came just minutes after earlier blasts brought emergency services and bystanders rushing to the scene.
The blast happens in a split second and you can see how the people standing watching what had been a fire had little time to take cover.
Some of those who did so were killed in this explosion, including at least four firefighters, two police officers and a civil defence worker who were among the 24 reported fatalities.
The man who took the video was one of those who arrived after the initial explosions yesterday morning and hours later was still too upset to talk.
He was just yards away when the explosion ripped apart one of the factory buildings while emergency crews were trying to help those already injured.
Firefighters can be seen scurrying around the factory as they try to extinguish the flames.
Tultepec resident Guadalupe Romero was working in his furniture shop a few hundred yards away when he felt the first blasts at around 9.40am on Thursday morning (July 5).
The 64-year-old said: “They were very strong. The doors of nearby houses were blown off and the ground shook like an earthquake.
“There were injuries and pieces of bodies flying around. Some friends of mine were killed.”
Tultepec is famed for its dozens of fireworks factories where deadly explosions are all too common.
Accidents have killed at least 70 people in less than two years, including one last month that killed seven and injured eight and a blast which levelled a fireworks market in the town, killing 35 people in December 2016.
Andrés Manuel Lopez Obrador can certainly draw a crowd.
AMLO, as he is better known, closed his third presidential campaign by filling the giant Estadio Azteca in Mexico City for a final rally.
But unlike his two losing campaigns for the presidency, in 2006 and 2012, this time it appears nothing can stop the veteran leftist from taking power following the vote on July 1.
Mexicans fed up after six years of current president Enrique Peña Nieto and the PRI finally appear ready to trust a man who alienated too many centrist voters during his two previous runs for the top job.
Wednesday night’s rally (June 27) felt more like the coronation of a man whose lifelong dream of leading Mexico finally appears within his grasp.
A homophobic football chant which has again had Mexican fans in trouble with FIFA could be heard ringing out across Mexico City on Saturday (June 23).
But it was not coming from fans of El Tri, the Mexican national team, but participants in the city’s 40th annual Gay Pride parade.
The milestone event immediately followed Mexico’s victory over South Korea in their second game of the World Cup.
The city was packed with fans just like those whose use of the word ‘puto’, slang for a male prostitute, to try and put of goalkeeper Manuel Neur during El Tri’s clash with Germany in Moscow in their opening match, brought a $10,000 fine from FIFA.
But among the hundreds of thousands of LGTB rights advocates filling the streets of the capital on Saturday many could be heard ‘taking back’ the slur which has threatened to cast a shadow over Mexico’s brilliant start to the World Cup.
The wife of disgraced former Veracruz governor Javier Duarte has been filmed living the high life in London as she too is investigated for embezzlement.
Karim Macías is now the subject of an Interpol red notice after current Veracruz governor Miguel Ángel Lunes Linares issued an arrest warrant for her.
Macías’s husband Javier Duarte is in custody in Mexico facing accusations he and his associates looted $3.2 billion US from the state which he ran between 2010 and 2016.
She herself is accused of embezzling 112 million pesos of public funds during that period – around $5.65 million at today’s exchange rate.
It does not seem Macías will be hard to find. In a press conference yesterday (May 29), Linares played an eight-minute video to reporters appearing to show her going about a life of luxury in Belgravia in West London.
In the middle of the day on May 15, 2017, Javier Valdez Cárdenas was walking towards his car in his hometown of Culiacán, Sinaloa – he never made it.
A car full of gunmen pulled up beside the journalist, ordered him to kneel and shot him dead with a dozen bullets.
By all accounts Valdez was a fearless and brilliant reporter, first for Mexican television and later for daily newspaper Noroeste, based in Sinaloa, and RioDoce, a weekly magazine dedicated to chronicling crime and corruption in the state which he co-founded in 2003.
He also wrote a number of books, including The Orphans of the Drug Trade: The Forgotten Ones in the War on Drugs, Hitman: Confessions of an Assassin in Ciudad Juárez and the Mala-yerba, which literally means ‘bad weed’; a collection of short pieces each telling one story of those affected by the drug war in northern Mexico.
A year later and no one has been brought to justice for his slaying – putting the case in the 99.6 per cent of crimes against journalists in Mexico for which the perpetrators remain unpunished, according to a recent report by press freedom organisation Article 19.
Over five days of events across Sinaloa last week family, friends, colleagues and supporters of Mr Valdez came together to remember him and protest the impunity afforded his killers and those of dozens of others of journalists in Mexico – more than 30 have been murdered in the last three years alone.
They were led by his widow, Griselda Triana, who held her head high throughout what must have been a horrendous few days.
A new film, No Se Mata La Verdad – ‘The Truth Shall Not Be Killed’ – was screened for the first time, documenting these three preceding blood-soaked years of Mexican journalism.
As the credits rolled some in the audience broke out into shouts of ‘No al silencio’ – ‘No to silence’ – which has becoming a rallying call for supporters of free speech since Valdez was killed.
Témoris Grecko is a Mexican war correspondent and the reporter in the film, as well as being one of its producers.
“I’ve worked in Syria, I’ve worked in Iran and Iraq; in Egypt, Libya and in Gaza – when you are in these places you are just another annoying journalist working around but here, they go after you,” he said.
To prove the point, news emerged on Tuesday (May 15) of the killing of yet another reporter in Mexico, this time Juan Carlos Huerta, shot dead as he left his home in Villahermosa, Tabasco.
On Friday (May 25) it was reported journalist Alicia Diaz Gonzalez had been found dead at her home in Monterrey with stab wounds to the back of the neck.
Hundreds joined a march in Culiacán on May 15 to protest 365 days of impunity for Valdez’s killers, starting at the city’s cathedral and ending at the office of the Sinaloa district attorney.
The black tinted windows of the six-storey building looked down on the crowd as the sun went down and a number of speakers addressed protestors.
A cleaner poked her head out of the door but no one from officialdom emerged.
Both are currently in custody, Mini Lic in the United States, where he faces drug trafficking and money laundering charges, and Licenciado in Mexico after his high profile arrest in Mexico City last year.
Two of those believed to have been in the car the day of Valdez’s death, alleged driver Heriberto ‘N’, alias ‘El Koala’, and passenger Juan Francisco Picos Barrueto, alias ‘El Quillo’, have been arrested by Mexican federal police.
The body of the man who supposedly pulled the trigger, Idelfonso Sánchez Romero, alias ‘El Diablo’, was found in a burned out car in Tijuana shortly after El Koala’s April 23 arrest.
But regardless of whether anyone is ever charged, let alone convicted, of Valdez’s murder, his widow has little hope for the future of journalism in Mexico.
Mrs Valdez said: “We can continue to believe something might change but I believe that as long as our authorities fail to put limits on the level of impunity and while that impunity exists here, people will have a license to kill each other and nothing is going to happen to them.”
If you think Mexico is all about beaches and wrestling then you need to check out Guanajuato.
The colonial capital of the state with the same name was originally built by Spanish conquistadors who plundered their wealth from mines beneath the city, which at one point supplied silver across the world.
It is now a Unesco World Heritage city, some of which is perched on the sides of hills so steep it doesn’t seem possible that people live there.